Heritage BiCompax Annual
At the end of 2018, Carl F. Bucherer revealed the Tourbillon Double Peripheral Limited Edition as the launch point of the new Heritage collection, aiming to commemorate the 130th anniversary of the company's involvement in the watch industry as a jeweler and watchmaker. According to the brand, Heritage Collection will serve as the pillar series of limited edition timepieces with various complications. At this year's Baselworld, the Lucerne-based company released the BiCompax Annual Chronograph, a new watch that uses two different case materials and dial treatments.
This 41mm watch combines an annual calendar and a chronograph. It has stainless steel, silver dial and panda style dial, as well as rose gold and champagne dial in two-tone rose gold. The annual calendar indicator avoids displaying the week and leap year, and only displays a large date indicator in the upper half of the dial, and sets a month aperture between 4 o'clock and 5 o'clock.
Carl F. Bucherer stated that the watch was inspired directly from the 1956 34mm double compound chronograph in the brand's archives. Other notable details include the use of eye-catching syringe hands filled with Super-LumiNova, vintage-style Arabic numerals, elongated chronograph buttons, box-shaped sapphire crystals, as well as panda dial and black cognac brown calfskin strap with black Rubber strap. Champagne two-tone model. The movement provided inside is the self-winding CFB 1972 movement (ETA base, equipped with Dubois Dépraz module), which provides a 42-hour power reserve.
The next in the Patravi series is the "travel" model, a chronograph with GMT complication. The travel watch above can track three time zones at the same time, including the main hand, GMT hand and rotating inner ring.
TravelGraph is different from the first two TravelTecs in that it can only track two time zones, but it is a good choice for people who want GMT chronographs not as busy as the TravelTec model. I also like the bezel.
The Chrono series is easily one of the coolest series in CFB. The picture above is Chronograde, which is the second or third most complicated watch offered by FB, second only to the perpetual calendar or tourbillon. It has many unique features and deserves a detailed introduction.
In addition to the flyback chronograph, it also has a very unique counterclockwise 8:00 counter. The power reserve is uniquely pointed out-most are semi-circular in nature (even in other CFB models). In order to get the round appearance that CFB wanted, they used two hands, one long and one short, to tap different painted marks on the dial. But perhaps the most interesting complication is the annual calendar. This is one of the most complicated watches on the market today.
For those who wish to use a simpler CFB calendar, you can use the Chronodate calendar. If you want a calendar without an annual calendar but with larger dates, you can use ChronoDate:
For those looking for exquisite wine barrel boxes, the "T" type is for you.
There are T-Graph, timing options. It has a gorgeous sunburst blue (also available in many other colors), chronograph, big date and power reserve, so it is a very complicated watch.
If you don't want a chronograph, but like this situation, then this T-24 can also be used. It lost the chronograph, but gained a second time zone subdial. The Patravi series also has a traditional diver, the new ScubaTec:
Or, if you want the opposite option, that is the traditional low-key dress watch, here is AutoDate:
The Manero series is CFB's second largest series, and features the most complex watches in the CFB lineup, as well as some simpler, lower-key options. Perhaps the most impressive watch in CFB's entire portfolio is its special edition Manero Tourbillon:
This watch combines the style of CFB with a gorgeous tourbillon, power reserve and a second time zone. The power reserve of this watch is impressive, up to 70 hours, which is particularly useful because the watch can only be wound manually. Only 188 were produced, which makes them very rare.
As the name suggests, their ChronoPerpetual series is almost impressive, with not only a perpetual calendar and moon phases, but also a chronograph.. Like the tourbillon, this type of tourbillon is very rare, only 100 have been run. However, unlike the tourbillon, this watch is self-winding and has a power reserve of 50 hours, which is still far above average. Now, if you like the Patravi EvoTec with complex internal movement and power reserve, but want to reduce power, Manero PowerReserve is a good choice:
It has exactly the same functions as the A1000, but the design is more subtle. I really like the flat dauphine hands with thin strips in the middle. This is a very versatile design that combines the luminosity and the screw-in crown to become a very slender item. Unlike the first two Manero models, this model has been fully mass-produced. CFB does provide this perpetual calendar without chronograph:
This is a very bold design, currently only available in gold. I like the huge 12:00 mark and those avant-garde hands. It should also be noted that the borders around the date and date sub-scales are very eccentric, which is really interesting and also has the abnormal moon phase complications at 6:00. CFB also produced a very elegant chronograph in the Manero series CentralChrono:
This is a very balanced dial, and it is very unusual that no small dial refers to a chronograph. The one on our left is the second time zone, and the one on the right is the main hour hand.
In fact, all chronograph functions are handled by two central hands, whose time units are seconds and minutes.
Manero Retrograde must be one of their coolest watches. Its pointer is similar to the Manero Perpetual model, although it is made of stainless steel with a shiny luster, and the dial is extremely avant-garde. It is worth noting that the date to trace its name is actually decreasing. Another interesting aspect is that only the number 3 is displayed instead of the traditional 12. This interests me a bit, because the 3:00 mark is usually sacrificed in the date window, so it's interesting to see it come back. In the absence of a more conventional 12-6-9. I don't know if they choose to do this, because it uses retrograde dates and avoids the use of date windows. Turning to the more low-key components in the Manero series, we arrive at the aptly named BigDate Power. As you might expect, it has a large date and power reserve:
Similarly, there is a good moon phase model (and date/date/month):
Alacria Alacria is the answer provided by CFB for ladies. The series is quite bold and uses a variety of contrasting metals, gems and colors. The Alacria series is entirely composed of a quartz movement, which undoubtedly makes the watch thinner and smaller.
Certain models of the RoyalRose have excellent dialing capabilities.
For women seeking low-key models, they also produced Diva:
As you can see, Bucherer prefers this novel case shape and will not try to fly under the radar with the ladies' lineup. Naturally, this model has many design changes.
I tried to outline each model of CFB and their outstanding features. What we see here is a traditional Swiss watchmaker who attaches great importance to the work of the dial, movement and complications. These are three areas where I can definitely fall behind. They have a wide variety of watches, but their styles are completely different. Not only do they provide some great movements, but they also continue to innovate with the new A1000 internal movement, so Bucherer is now doing some great things. In my opinion, they are often overlooked, so they are definitely worthy of your consideration, especially if you are deeply interested in complexity-few watch companies in the world offer so many complex watches.